The oven is the enclosed appliance that bakes, roasts and grills, heating food inside a closed cavity rather than in pans on top. In most UK kitchens it is a separate appliance from the hob, built into a tall housing at eye level or fitted under the worktop, and it drops into its own housing unit.
Ovens are usually electric, most with a fan that moves hot air around for even cooking on several shelves at once. Beyond plain baking they add features like grilling, steam and self cleaning. The common size is a 60cm wide cavity, with compact 45cm high models used for combination and steam ovens.
1 - Cavity
2 - Door and glass
3 - Shelves and runners
4 - Fan and element
5 - Controls
6 - Housing unit
Baking, roasting and grilling
The oven cooks food in an enclosed cavity, surrounding it with heat for baking and roasting, with a grill element at the top for browning and grilling.
Even cooking with fan and functions
A fan moves the hot air around so several shelves cook evenly at once, and extra functions like steam or different heat settings suit different dishes.
Fitting into the kitchen
As a built in appliance the oven slots into a tall housing at eye level or under the worktop, becoming part of the run rather than a freestanding cooker.
Built into a tall unit at eye level, which is easier to load and check without bending down.
Neff
Famous for its Slide and Hide disappearing oven door and CircoTherm hot air cooking, Neff is a popular choice in fitted kitchens for design led, well featured ovens.
Bosch
A German maker with a wide, reliable oven range from full size to compact, known for even cooking and a cool touch door that stays safe to the touch.
AEG
A German brand, part of Electrolux, offering ovens with SteamBake and steam functions and pyrolytic self cleaning, in clean, modern designs.
Ovens are chosen by how many cavities they have and what extra functions they add on top of plain baking and roasting.
One cavity in a standard 60cm unit, the most common built in oven. Simple and flexible, it suits most households on its own.
Two cavities in one unit, a larger main oven and a smaller second oven or grill, letting you cook things at different temperatures at the same time.
A compact oven that also works as a microwave, often stacked above the main oven for quick reheating and speedier cooking.
Ovens follow standard cavity sizes, with the supply set by the electric load.
Choose the oven for how you cook and where it will sit, and set up the right electric supply, since ovens draw a lot of power.
Format and functions
Decide single, double, combination or steam, and which functions and cleaning you want, such as pyrolytic self cleaning. This sets the size and the cost.
Position and housing
Choose eye level in a tall unit or built under the worktop, and fit the correct housing unit with the clearances the maker requires.
Supply
Confirm the dedicated high power circuit the oven needs, which an electrician must provide, and check the cable route to the housing.
The fridge keeps food cold and fresh, and in most kitchens it is paired with a freezer in a single appliance, a fridge freezer. It is one of the few things in a kitchen running all day every day, so how efficient and reliable it is matters more than for anything else.
Fridges come in several formats, from a unit built under the worktop, to a tall freestanding or integrated model, to a wide American style. Modern ones add frost free freezing and fresh zones that keep produce longer. Because it runs constantly, the energy rating has a real effect on running costs.
1 - Fridge compartment
2 - Freezer compartment
3 - Shelves and drawers
4 - Door seals
5 - Fresh zone
6 - Compressor
Keeping food cold and fresh
The fridge holds food at a low, steady temperature that slows spoiling, with fresh zones and humidity drawers keeping fruit, vegetables and meat in good condition for longer.
Freezing and storing frozen food
The freezer section stores frozen food and freezes fresh food, with frost free systems keeping ice from building up so it rarely needs defrosting.
Running efficiently around the clock
Because it is on all the time, a fridge is designed to run quietly and use as little energy as possible, which is why its energy rating is worth weighing carefully.
Built under the worktop or as a tall unit within the run, the usual spot in most kitchens.
Bosch
A reliable, well engineered choice across freestanding and integrated fridges and fridge freezers, with a wide range of sizes and good efficiency.
Samsung
Strong on American style and side by side units, with SpaceMax insulation for more room inside and water and ice options, a common choice for larger kitchens.
Liebherr
A German refrigeration specialist and Europe's largest private fridge maker, known for BioFresh fresh zones, NoFrost and quiet, premium build across freestanding and integrated models.
Fridges are chosen mainly by format, and by whether they stand on show or hide behind a cabinet door.
A standalone tall unit with the fridge and freezer stacked together. The most common and best value choice, in a finished colour on show.
Built in behind a matching cabinet door so it blends into the run. It costs more and holds a little less, but gives a seamless fitted look.
A wide side by side or french door unit, often with water and ice through the door, for large households wanting plenty of space.
Fridge sizes follow standard widths, with capacity given in litres.
Choose the fridge for the household size and the look you want, and pay particular attention to the energy rating, since it runs constantly.
Format and split
Decide freestanding, integrated or American style, and the split between fridge and freezer space that suits how you shop and cook.
Size and capacity
Set the width and height to fit the space, and the capacity in litres to suit the household, allowing air gaps around it.
Features and efficiency
Choose the features you want, such as fresh zones, frost free or water and ice, and pick a strong energy rating to keep running costs down.
The extractor, or cooker hood, clears steam, grease and cooking smells from the air above the hob. It sits over the hob and either ducts the air outside through a vent, or filters it and sends clean air back into the room. It keeps the kitchen fresher and stops grease settling on surfaces and units.
Extractors work in one of two ways, ducted out to an outside wall, which clears the most, or recirculating through a charcoal filter where no outside route is possible. Performance is measured by the extraction rate in cubic metres an hour, and the hood should match the width of the hob and how much you cook.
1 - Canopy
2 - Grease filter
3 - Fan and motor
4 - Ducting
5 - Lights
6 - Controls
Clearing steam, grease and smells
The extractor pulls the air rising off the hob through a grease filter, taking out steam, grease and cooking smells before they spread through the kitchen.
Ducting out or recirculating
It either sends the air outside through ducting, which clears the most, or filters it through charcoal and returns clean air to the room where there is no outside route.
Lighting the hob
Most hoods also light the cooking area from above, giving a clearer view of the pans as well as better air.
The usual position, mounted on the wall above a hob set into the run.
Elica
An Italian company and the global leader in kitchen extraction, making every style from chimney and ceiling hoods to downdrafts, plus its NikolaTesla venting hobs. Strong on design and quiet, efficient motors.
Bosch
A reliable, well engineered range of hoods across the main styles, with features like Hob Hood control that links the hood to a Bosch hob so it adjusts extraction automatically.
Neff
Design led hoods that suit fitted kitchens, including integrated and island models and venting hobs, from the same group as Bosch.
Extractors are grouped by how and where they mount, from a visible chimney to one hidden in the hob itself.
Wall mounted with a visible chimney flue above, the classic style in stainless steel or glass. Powerful and a design feature in its own right.
Hidden inside a wall cabinet above the hob, showing only a slim pull out or nothing at all, for a streamlined look that keeps the units continuous.
Rises up from the worktop behind the hob when needed and drops away when not, avoiding anything overhead. It suits islands and open plan kitchens.
Match the hood to the hob width and the size of the kitchen.
Choose the extractor alongside the hob and the kitchen layout, since it must match the hob width and either duct outside or filter and recirculate.
Ducted or recirculating
Decide whether it can duct out to an external wall, which clears the most, or must recirculate through a charcoal filter. This depends on the route available.
Style and size
Pick the style to suit the position, wall, island or hidden, and size it to match or exceed the hob width for good coverage.
Performance and noise
Choose an extraction rate suited to the size of the room and how much you cook, and check the noise level, since more power usually means more noise.
The dishwasher washes and dries dishes automatically, plumbed into the kitchen's water and waste. It takes a cold feed and drains into the sink trap, the connection covered under the plumbing element, so it usually sits right next to the sink to keep those runs short.
It fits into a standard 600mm space, or a narrower 450mm slimline one, and can be hidden behind a matching cabinet door. Dishwashers are measured by how many place settings they hold, how quiet they are in decibels, and their energy rating.
1 - Door and cabinet panel
2 - Baskets and racks
3 - Spray arms
4 - Filter
5 - Detergent dispenser
6 - Cold feed and drain
Washing and drying dishes
The dishwasher sprays hot water and detergent over the dishes through rotating arms, then rinses and dries them, saving the time and water of washing up by hand.
Connecting to water and waste
It takes a cold feed, heats its own water, and drains the dirty water into the sink trap below, which is why it sits close to the sink.
Hiding into the run
An integrated dishwasher takes a matching cabinet door on the front, so it disappears into the line of units rather than standing out.
The usual spot, right beside the sink so the cold feed and the drain to the trap are as short as possible.
Bosch
The world's number one dishwasher brand for many years running, known for quiet, reliable machines with strong cleaning and drying across integrated, slimline and freestanding models.
Miele
A premium German maker built and tested for long life, with features like the AutoDos automatic detergent system and smooth, flexible racking. The step up choice.
Neff
Design led dishwashers from the same group as Bosch, popular in fitted kitchens, with features like an open door drying assist for better results.
Dishwashers are chosen by how they are finished, hidden or on show, and by their size.
Completely hidden behind a matching cabinet door, with the controls on the top edge of the door. The most seamless option in a fitted kitchen.
A cabinet door covers the lower part, but the control panel stays visible on the front, so you can see the programme and time at a glance.
A standalone unit with a finished front, not hidden. Easy to move and a common choice for utility rooms or rentals.
Dishwashers follow standard widths, and need water, waste and power close by.
Choose the dishwasher to fit the space and the look, and place it beside the sink so its feed and drain tie neatly into the plumbing.
Size and finish
Decide full 600mm or slimline 450mm, and whether it is fully integrated, semi integrated or freestanding, to suit the kitchen.
Position and services
Place it next to the sink and confirm the cold feed, the waste connection into the sink trap, and a socket, all set out with the plumbing.
Capacity and features
Match the place settings to the household, and weigh up the noise level, drying method and any third rack or flexible baskets.
The hob is the cooking surface set into the worktop, where pans are heated for everything from boiling and frying to simmering. It sits over a base unit, usually with a drawer or an oven below, and comes as a self contained unit that drops into a cut out in the worktop. In most UK kitchens the hob and the oven are separate appliances, so the hob is just the top surface, with the oven a separate element below or elsewhere.
Hobs differ mainly in how they make heat, from a gas flame to electric elements to induction, and this decides the look, the running cost, the pans you can use and the power or gas supply needed. They come in a range of widths, most often 600mm for four zones and up to 900mm for five or more, in black glass, ceramic or stainless steel.
1 - Cooking zone
2 - Glass or steel surface
3 - Controls
4 - Pan support (gas)
5 - Worktop cut out
6 - Power or gas supply below
Heating pans for cooking
The hob is where food is cooked in pans on the worktop, giving controllable heat across several zones so you can boil, fry and simmer at the same time.
Controlling the heat
Each zone is adjusted on its own, by a flame on gas or touch controls on electric and induction, letting you match the heat to the pan and the dish quickly and precisely.
Fitting into the worktop
As a drop in unit, the hob sits flush or slightly proud in a cut out, keeping the worktop as a continuous surface with the cooking built into it.
The usual spot, dropped into the worktop over a base unit, often with the oven built in below.
Bosch
A German maker with a long reputation for reliable, well engineered hobs across gas, induction, ceramic, domino and venting, in a wide range of sizes and finishes. A default specified brand, backed by strong service.
Neff
Part of the same group as Bosch and popular in fitted kitchens for its design led hobs, including Flex Induction and the removable TwistPad control, plus venting hobs for islands.
AEG
A German brand, part of Electrolux, strong on induction with features like SenseBoil and its scratch resistant SaphirMatt glass, and a good range of venting hobs.
Hobs are grouped by how they make heat, and this is the choice that shapes everything else, the running cost, the pans, the supply needed and the look.
Burners with a flame, giving instant, visible heat that responds the moment you adjust it, which is why many keen cooks prefer it. It needs a gas supply, and the burners and pan supports take a little more cleaning.
An electric hob that heats the pan directly through a magnetic field, so the surface itself stays cool. It is the fastest, most efficient and safest to use, and easy to clean, but it works only with magnetic pans and needs a good power supply.
Radiant electric elements under a smooth glass top. It looks much like induction and works with any pan, but the glass itself gets hot and it is slower to heat and cool than induction.
Hob sizes follow standard widths, with the supply set by the heat type.
Choose the hob alongside the worktop and the extraction, since it needs a cut out, the right supply, and a way to clear steam and smells.
Heat type and supply
Pick the heat technology, gas, induction or ceramic, and confirm the supply it needs, a gas point or a dedicated high power electric circuit, which an electrician or gas engineer must provide.
Size and layout
Choose the width and number of zones for the way you cook, and set the worktop cut out to the maker's template, leaving the clearance needed to any oven or drawer below.
Extraction and pans
Decide how steam and smells are cleared, an extractor hood above or a venting hob, and for induction check the pans are magnetic or plan to replace them.
The tap is where water is delivered at the sink, usually a single fitting that blends hot and cold through one spout. It sits on the sink ledge or the worktop just behind the bowl, fed from the hot and cold supplies below through flexible connectors, and it is in use constantly, so it needs to feel good to use and stand up to years of daily handling.
Taps range from a simple mixer up to all in one taps that also give filtered, chilled, sparkling or instant boiling water. They come in a choice of finishes, from chrome and brushed steel to black, brass and gold, and mount either on the sink or through the worktop. The type and any extra features decide what goes on below, since filtered and boiling taps need a filter or a heating tank in the cabinet.
1 - Spout
2 - Lever or handle
3 - Pull out spray head
4 - Tap body
5 - Flexible tails
6 - Mounting nut
Delivering and mixing water
The tap brings hot and cold to the sink and blends them to the temperature you want through one or two levers, giving controlled water for washing, rinsing and filling.
Making everyday jobs easier
Features like a pull out spray, a high swivel spout or instant boiling water speed up rinsing, filling pans and making drinks, which is why the type is chosen around how the kitchen is used.
Setting the look
As one of the few pieces of hardware on show, the tap is a design feature in its own right, with its shape and finish often chosen to match the handles, the sink and other fittings.
The usual spot, on the sink ledge or the worktop just behind the bowl, over the sink base unit.
Quooker
The Dutch inventor of the boiling water tap, delivering instant near boiling water from an insulated tank in the cabinet, with filtered chilled and sparkling water through its CUBE. The name specifiers reach for on boiling taps, with a strong focus on safety.
Grohe
A German maker since 1936, known for precise, hard wearing mixers and pull out taps, plus the Grohe Blue filtered range and Grohe Red boiling water range. A premium mainstream choice in many finishes.
Franke
Crossing over from its sinks, Franke offers a full range of kitchen taps from mixers and pull outs to filter and boiling water taps, designed to match its sinks for a coordinated look.
Taps are chosen by what they do as much as how they look. The options run from a simple mixer up to all in one taps that add filtered, chilled or instant boiling water.
The standard kitchen tap, blending hot and cold through a single lever or twin handles and one spout. Simple, reliable and the most affordable, in a huge range of shapes and finishes.
A mixer with a spray head that pulls out on a flexible hose, giving extra reach for rinsing the sink, filling pans and washing awkward items. A very popular upgrade.
Delivers near boiling water on demand from a tank in the cabinet below, replacing the kettle. Many also give filtered chilled or sparkling water. Quooker leads this category.
Most taps fit a standard hole and connection, with the extra features deciding what is needed below.
Choose the tap alongside the sink and worktop, since the number of tap holes and the mounting have to match, and any boiling or filter features need space and services below.
Type and features
Decide what the tap needs to do, whether a plain mixer, a pull out spray, filtered water or instant boiling, as this drives the cost and what goes in the cabinet below.
Mounting and holes
Confirm whether it mounts on the sink or through the worktop, and that the number of tap holes matches the sink or that a hole can be cut. Check the water pressure suits the tap.
Finish and services
Pick the finish to suit the kitchen, and set the services below, isolation valves on the supplies, a socket and tank space for a boiling tap, or a filter housing for a filter tap.
The plumbing is everything behind and below the sink that brings water in and takes it away. Two supplies rise up to the sink area, a hot and a cold, usually in copper pipe, and each has an isolation valve so it can be shut off on its own for work on the tap or an appliance. The main stopcock, which turns off the whole cold supply to the house, normally sits on the cold pipe under the kitchen sink.
From the supplies, flexible hoses feed the tap with hot and cold, and a separate cold feed runs to the dishwasher, which heats its own water and so needs no hot supply. On the waste side, a white plastic pipe carries water away through a trap, the U bend that holds a plug of water to stop drain smells coming back up, and the dishwasher drains into that same trap. The sink's own overflow ties in here too, guarding against the bowl overfilling.
1 - Cold supply
2 - Hot supply
3 - Isolation valves
4 - Stopcock
5 - Flexible tap hoses
6 - Trap or U bend
7 - Dishwasher feed and drain
8 - Waste pipe
Bringing water to the sink and appliances
Two supplies feed the tap and any appliances, hot and cold to the tap and a cold feed to the dishwasher. Each supply has an isolation valve, so a single fitting can be shut off without turning off the rest.
Taking waste water away
The waste pipe carries used water from the sink and the dishwasher down to the drain, with the trap holding a plug of water that keeps drain smells out of the kitchen.
Letting you shut things off safely
The isolation valves and the main stopcock mean the supply can be turned off quickly, either the whole house at the stopcock or a single fitting at its valve, which makes maintenance and emergencies far easier.
The hub of kitchen plumbing, where the supplies, valves, stopcock, tap hoses, waste and appliance connections all come together inside the sink base unit.
McAlpine
A British manufacturer since 1907 and the market leader in traps, waste pipe and appliance connections, the plastic side of kitchen plumbing. WRAS certified and made in the UK, with a huge range of traps and dishwasher and washing machine connectors.
John Guest Speedfit
The British inventor of the plastic push fit system, making push fit pipe, fittings, isolation and service valves and flexible tap connectors. Tool free and flame free to fit, with a long guarantee and WRAS approval.
Pegler Yorkshire
A long established British name, now part of Aalberts, behind Yorkshire copper solder fittings and Pegler valves and stopcocks. A traditional choice for copper supply work and for isolation valves.
Kitchen plumbing can be put together in a few ways, and the choice is mostly about the pipe material and how the joints are made. Most kitchens use a mix of these.
The traditional supply pipe, rigid and long lasting, joined by soldering or with compression fittings. It is neat and robust, but it takes more skill, and soldering needs a flame.
Flexible plastic pipe, such as Speedfit or Hep2O, joined by pushing it into a fitting that grips and seals it. Fast, with no tools or flame needed, and easy to alter later, which is why it is common on modern jobs.
Fittings that seal onto copper or plastic pipe by tightening a nut and olive, with no heat needed. Handy for connecting valves and for any joint that might need undoing later.
The common kitchen sizes are set by standard pipe and waste dimensions.
Kitchen plumbing is usually set out by the plumber to suit the layout, but the key choices are the pipe system, where the isolation points go, and how the appliances connect.
Pipe system and route
Choose the pipe material and jointing, copper or plastic push fit, and plan the route for the hot and cold supplies and the waste to reach the sink and appliances, keeping the runs short and accessible.
Valves and isolation
Fit an isolation valve on each supply so the tap and each appliance can be shut off on its own, and confirm the stopcock position on the cold under the sink. Put them where they can actually be reached.
Appliance and waste connections
Set the cold feed and drain connection for the dishwasher and any washing machine, tee the appliance drains into the sink trap, and make sure the waste falls correctly to the drain with the trap keeping its water seal.
The sink is the bowl set into or under the worktop where washing up, food prep and filling pans all happen. It is one of the most used items in the whole kitchen, so it has to be tough, easy to clean and sized to suit how the kitchen is used. It sits over its own sink base unit, takes the tap and the waste, and connects down to the plumbing below.
Sinks come in a few materials, mainly stainless steel, composite made from crushed granite or quartz bound in resin, and ceramic, and in different bowl layouts, from a single large bowl to a bowl and a half or a double, with or without a drainer. The material and the bowl layout are usually chosen alongside the mounting type, which is the main thing that decides how the sink meets the worktop.
1 - Bowl
2 - Tap ledge or tap hole
3 - Drainer
4 - Waste and strainer
5 - Overflow
The wash and prep point
Most of the water based jobs in a kitchen happen at the sink, from washing up and rinsing food to filling and emptying pans. A bowl of the right size and depth for the way the kitchen is used makes all of these easier.
Handling water and waste
The sink gathers water and sends it away through the waste and trap below, with an overflow to guard against overfilling. It is the point where the tap delivers water and the plumbing carries it away.
Standing up to heavy use
In constant use and often full of hot water, pans and sharp knives, the sink has to resist heat, staining, scratching and knocks. This is why the material matters just as much as the look.
Usually set into the run under a window or along a wall, sitting over its own sink base unit with the plumbing housed below.
Franke
A Swiss founded brand with over a century in kitchen sinks, offering every mounting type and material, from stainless steel and its Fragranite composite to ceramic. A common trade and specifier choice with a wide, well supported range.
Blanco
A German maker best known for SILGRANIT, its patented granite composite that resists scratches, stains and heat, alongside stainless steel and ceramic ranges. Sinks carry a long guarantee and pair with matching taps.
Reginox
A Dutch manufacturer making sinks and worktops in house since 1976, in stainless steel, granite composite and ceramic, with a lifetime guarantee on its stainless steel sinks. Strong value across a broad range.
Sinks are grouped by how they are mounted to the worktop, which is the choice that most affects the look, the price and which worktop materials will work. The bowl material and layout are then chosen to suit.
The most common and the easiest to fit. The sink drops into a cut out from above and its rim sits on top of the worktop, sealed with a bead of silicone. It works with almost any worktop, laminate included, which is why it is the default choice.
Fixed from below so the worktop edge forms the rim and nothing sits proud of the surface. It gives a clean look and lets you sweep crumbs straight into the bowl, but it needs a solid, water resistant worktop such as stone, quartz or solid surface.
A deep ceramic bowl with an exposed front that sits on its own base unit, the classic farmhouse look. A Belfast bowl traditionally has an overflow while a butler does not. Both are heavy and need proper support in the cabinet below.
The key figure is the base unit width the sink needs, since the bowls have to fit inside the cabinet below.
Choose the sink alongside the worktop and tap, since the mounting type and the number of tap holes have to work with both.
Mounting and worktop
Pick the mounting type and check it suits the worktop. Undermount and flush fit need a solid non porous top, while inset works with anything. This sets how the cut out or recess is made.
Bowl layout and size
Choose the material and the bowl layout, whether single, bowl and a half or double, with or without a drainer, and make sure it fits the sink base unit width below. Decide which side any half bowl or drainer sits.
Tap holes and waste
Confirm how many tap holes are needed and whether they are pre cut or knocked out on site, and set the waste type, including any connection for a waste disposal unit. Coordinate the supply and waste positions with the plumbing.
A worktop is the horizontal work surface that sits on top of the base units and runs the length of the kitchen. It is the main surface you prepare food and work on, so it has to stand up to water, heat, knocks and stains day after day. It also takes the cut outs for the sink and hob, and ties the run of units together into one continuous top.
Worktops are made from a range of materials, from budget laminate to natural stone, and the choice sets the look, the cost and how much care it needs. Whatever the material, the worktop is fixed down onto the base units and usually sits around 600mm deep so it overhangs the doors slightly, with an upstand or splashback sealing the join at the wall.
1 - Worktop surface
2 - Edge profile
3 - Upstand
4 - Sink cut out
5 - Worktop joint
The main work surface
The worktop is where most of the work in a kitchen happens, from preparing food to setting down shopping and appliances. Because it is in constant use, it needs to be hard wearing, easy to clean and hygienic, which is why the material choice matters so much.
Taking the sink and hob
The worktop carries the sink and the hob, with cut outs made for each. The material has to cope with water around the sink and heat around the hob, so how neatly and safely it takes these cut outs is a big part of choosing one.
Sealing and protecting the units
Sitting across the top of the cabinets, the worktop closes them off and keeps water out, which is most important around the sink. An upstand or splashback and a bead of sealant along the back edge stop water running down behind the units.
The main use, running along the base units and across islands to give a continuous surface and tie the kitchen together.
Cosentino (Silestone)
A Spanish family company and world leader in engineered surfaces. Its Silestone quartz carries a 25 year warranty in thicknesses of 12, 20 and 30mm, and it also makes Dekton sintered stone and Sensa treated natural granite, so it spans several worktop materials.
Corian by DuPont
The original solid surface, invented by DuPont, made from acrylic and natural minerals. It joins with almost invisible seams for one flowing surface, takes an integrated sink, comes in over a hundred colours and carries a 10 year warranty.
Egger
An Austrian panel maker whose laminate worktop collection comes in 25 and 38mm thicknesses, square edge or postformed, with a wide range of wood and stone effect decors and matching upstands. Worktops carry a 10 year guarantee.
Worktops are chosen mainly by material, and the material sets the look, the price, how tough it is and how much upkeep it needs. The options below run from the premium end down to the everyday.
Quarried natural stone such as granite, and also marble or quartzite, cut and polished into a worktop. Every slab is unique, very hard and heat resistant, and feels genuinely premium. Being natural it is porous, so it needs sealing, and it is heavy, so it is templated and fitted by specialists. Marble is softer and stains and etches more easily than granite.
An engineered stone made from crushed quartz bound with resin and pigment, usually well over ninety percent stone. It is non porous so it never needs sealing, extremely hard, and made to a consistent colour and pattern across a huge range. It is cut from slabs and fitted much like granite. Silestone is one of the best known brands.
A man made blend of acrylic and minerals, such as Corian, that can be shaped and joined with almost invisible seams. This allows one flowing surface with an integrated sink and coved upstands and no joints to trap dirt. It is warm to the touch and can be sanded to repair marks, though it is less heat resistant than stone.
Worktops come in different thicknesses and formats depending on the material. Most sit around 600mm deep so they overhang the units slightly, and the finished height lands at roughly 890 to 910mm once on top of standard base units.
Choosing a worktop is a balance of looks, budget, durability and how much upkeep you are happy with, along with how it meets the sink and hob.
Material and finish
Pick the material and colour or finish, weighing up durability, the upkeep it needs such as sealing or oiling, how it copes with heat and stains, and the budget. This one decision drives most of the rest.
Thickness, edge and joins
Choose the thickness and edge profile, whether square, rounded or bevelled, and decide how joins are handled, since stone and quartz have visible joints while solid surface can be seamless. Set the slab or length sizes against the run so any joints fall in sensible places.
Sink, hob and upstands
Decide whether the sink sits in the top or under it, as an undermount sink suits a solid non porous surface, and confirm the hob cut out, any drainer grooves, and the upstands or splashback. Remember that stone, quartz and solid surface are templated after the units are fitted, then made and fitted by specialists.
A worktop is the horizontal work surface that sits on top of the base units and runs the length of the kitchen. It is the main surface you prepare food and work on, so it has to stand up to water, heat, knocks and stains day after day. It also takes the cut outs for the sink and hob, and ties the run of units together into one continuous top.
Worktops are made from a range of materials, from budget laminate to natural stone, and the choice sets the look, the cost and how much care it needs. Whatever the material, the worktop is fixed down onto the base units and usually sits around 600mm deep so it overhangs the doors slightly, with an upstand or splashback sealing the join at the wall.
1 - Worktop surface
2 - Edge profile
3 - Upstand
4 - Sink cut out
5 - Worktop joint
The main work surface
The worktop is where most of the work in a kitchen happens, from preparing food to setting down shopping and appliances. Because it is in constant use, it needs to be hard wearing, easy to clean and hygienic, which is why the material choice matters so much.
Taking the sink and hob
The worktop carries the sink and the hob, with cut outs made for each. The material has to cope with water around the sink and heat around the hob, so how neatly and safely it takes these cut outs is a big part of choosing one.
Sealing and protecting the units
Sitting across the top of the cabinets, the worktop closes them off and keeps water out, which is most important around the sink. An upstand or splashback and a bead of sealant along the back edge stop water running down behind the units.
The main use, running along the base units and across islands to give a continuous surface and tie the kitchen together.
Cosentino (Silestone)
A Spanish family company and world leader in engineered surfaces. Its Silestone quartz carries a 25 year warranty in thicknesses of 12, 20 and 30mm, and it also makes Dekton sintered stone and Sensa treated natural granite, so it spans several worktop materials.
Corian by DuPont
The original solid surface, invented by DuPont, made from acrylic and natural minerals. It joins with almost invisible seams for one flowing surface, takes an integrated sink, comes in over a hundred colours and carries a 10 year warranty.
Egger
An Austrian panel maker whose laminate worktop collection comes in 25 and 38mm thicknesses, square edge or postformed, with a wide range of wood and stone effect decors and matching upstands. Worktops carry a 10 year guarantee.
Worktops are chosen mainly by material, and the material sets the look, the price, how tough it is and how much upkeep it needs. The options below run from the premium end down to the everyday.
Quarried natural stone such as granite, and also marble or quartzite, cut and polished into a worktop. Every slab is unique, very hard and heat resistant, and feels genuinely premium. Being natural it is porous, so it needs sealing, and it is heavy, so it is templated and fitted by specialists. Marble is softer and stains and etches more easily than granite.
An engineered stone made from crushed quartz bound with resin and pigment, usually well over ninety percent stone. It is non porous so it never needs sealing, extremely hard, and made to a consistent colour and pattern across a huge range. It is cut from slabs and fitted much like granite. Silestone is one of the best known brands.
A man made blend of acrylic and minerals, such as Corian, that can be shaped and joined with almost invisible seams. This allows one flowing surface with an integrated sink and coved upstands and no joints to trap dirt. It is warm to the touch and can be sanded to repair marks, though it is less heat resistant than stone.
Worktops come in different thicknesses and formats depending on the material. Most sit around 600mm deep so they overhang the units slightly, and the finished height lands at roughly 890 to 910mm once on top of standard base units.
Choosing a worktop is a balance of looks, budget, durability and how much upkeep you are happy with, along with how it meets the sink and hob.
Material and finish
Pick the material and colour or finish, weighing up durability, the upkeep it needs such as sealing or oiling, how it copes with heat and stains, and the budget. This one decision drives most of the rest.
Thickness, edge and joins
Choose the thickness and edge profile, whether square, rounded or bevelled, and decide how joins are handled, since stone and quartz have visible joints while solid surface can be seamless. Set the slab or length sizes against the run so any joints fall in sensible places.
Sink, hob and upstands
Decide whether the sink sits in the top or under it, as an undermount sink suits a solid non porous surface, and confirm the hob cut out, any drainer grooves, and the upstands or splashback. Remember that stone, quartz and solid surface are templated after the units are fitted, then made and fitted by specialists.
A base unit is the floor standing cabinet that forms the lower tier of a kitchen and carries the worktop. It is a simple box, known as the carcass, usually built from 18mm melamine faced chipboard (MFC), with two side panels, a base, a back panel and a rail across the top that the worktop sits on. The standard UK carcass height is 720mm, and the unit stands on four adjustable legs of around 150mm, so the finished worktop lands at a comfortable working height of roughly 890 to 910mm.
Carcasses either come rigid, assembled at the factory, or flat packed for building on site. The side panels are drilled with a line of holes at 32mm centres, the System 32 standard, which take the pins the shelves rest on and provide fixing points for the hinges and drawer runners. Doors hang on concealed hinges and drawers run on concealed runners, both of which can be adjusted once the unit is fitted.
1 - Carcass side panel
2 - Adjustable shelf
3 - Top rail
4 - Back panel
5 - Adjustable leg
6 - Plinth
Storage and organisation
The base unit provides most of the storage in a kitchen, holding everything from pans and food to bins and integrated appliances. The inside can be fitted out with adjustable shelves, drawers or pull outs to suit whatever it needs to hold.
Carrying the worktop
The worktop sits on top of the base units and screws down from underneath, which also ties the whole run of cabinets together into one solid line.
Holding the doors and drawers
Doors hang on concealed hinges, sometimes called cup or European hinges, which tuck inside the cabinet when the door is shut. Unlike a surface fixed hinge such as a butt or piano hinge, these can be adjusted in three directions after fitting, so every door in a run can be lined up neatly on site. Most now have a soft close action built in.
Base units line up along the walls to form the run of a kitchen, giving a continuous worktop and the bulk of the storage.
Howdens
The UK's largest trade only kitchen supplier, making its own cabinets, fronts and laminate worktops in Yorkshire and Cheshire. Sold only to trade account holders through local depots, in both rigid and flat packed ranges.
Benchmarx
A trade only kitchen and joinery supplier, part of Travis Perkins, sold through trade counters. Cabinets come rigid with a lifetime guarantee covering the drawer boxes, runners, hinges, legs and shelf supports.
Magnet Trade
The trade arm of Magnet, manufacturing pre built kitchen cabinets, worktops and joinery in Darlington and selling only to trade account holders. Cabinets come with soft close hinges as standard and a lifetime guarantee.
Base units come in several configurations depending on what they hold and how you get to them. The carcass is much the same across all of them. It is the fit out inside and the arrangement of the front that changes.
A single or double door cabinet with one adjustable shelf inside. The most common and economical base unit, used for general storage. Single doors go up to around 600mm wide, and wider cabinets use a pair of doors.
A door cabinet with a single shallow drawer across the top, known as the drawer line, giving handy quick access storage above the main cupboard. A common default in UK kitchens.
A stack of deep drawers, usually two to four, in place of a door, for pans, crockery and food. It runs on strong soft close runners and is a popular choice for easy pull out storage.
Base units follow standard UK sizes, which keeps them interchangeable with worktops, appliances and doors.
Base units are usually chosen as part of a full kitchen range from one supplier rather than one at a time, so the carcass colour, board and hardware all come together as a set.
Range and carcass
Pick the kitchen range, which sets the carcass colour, the board, the back panel and whether the units come rigid or flat packed. Rigid units are stronger and quicker to fit but cost more and need somewhere to store them on site.
Layout and configuration
Set out the run and choose the type and width of each unit, from plain door to drawer line to pan drawer, along with the corner solution and the sink and appliance positions. Match the unit widths to the appliances and coordinate with the worktop joints.
Hardware and finish
Confirm the hinges and runners and whether they are soft close, whether the doors have handles or open by push, the height of the legs and plinth, and any pull outs or organisers inside. Check the guarantee covers the moving parts.
A door frame is the structural lining that forms the opening for a door within a wall. It is typically made from timber or metal and is fixed into the surrounding wall structure before the door leaf is installed. The frame consists of vertical jambs and a head, forming a rigid opening sized to receive the door. It is usually installed early in the construction sequence, fixed to masonry or studwork, and later finished with linings, architraves, or other trims.
Note that it is structural only in the sense that it supports the door leaf - the structural opening within the wall does not depend on anything within it for its stability.

1 - Architrave
2 - Door Frame
3 - Door Stop
Support, alignment and coordination
The door frame provides a stable and accurately sized opening for the door leaf. It ensures the door can be hung correctly and operate smoothly, while also defining the exact opening size and position. The opening in the wall is typically less accurate as it is formed on-site. The door frame fits within this and ensures that the opening is perfectly straight.
Load transfer
While not typically a primary structural element, the frame helps transfer local loads from the door (such as hinges and closing forces) into the surrounding wall. This is because the door leaf is 'hung' (supported) by the frame, and does not touch the ground itself.
Fire and acoustic performance
In rated partitions, the frame forms part of the overall system. Its material and installation can contribute to fire resistance and acoustic separation when used with compatible door sets. This will be tested and confirmed by the manufacturer.
Door frames are used in door openings and are provided as part of the door set.
JB Kind
One of the UK's leading internal timber door manufacturers. Widely specified for housing developments, self-build and renovation projects. Supplied through builders merchants and door retailers nationwide across a broad range of styles and finishes.
JELD-WEN
Major UK manufacturer of timber doorsets including fire door and security rated products. A go-to for commercial and residential specifiers requiring performance-rated internal doors with full technical documentation.
Steel Door Company
UK manufacturer specialising in internal steel door sets and room dividers, made to order in Staffordshire. Uses 20mm steel profiles for a minimal, contemporary aesthetic. Popular for high-end residential and commercial fit-outs.
Door frames vary depending on material, construction method, and performance requirements. Timber frame are usually used with timber doors, and metal frames with metal doors, sold as one product.

Common in residential and commercial buildings. Typically made from softwood or hardwood sections and suited to painted or stained finishes. Softwood is cheaper but hardwood provides better quality.

Usually formed from pressed steel and used in more robust or high-traffic environments such as schools, hospitals, or commercial buildings in back-of-house (BOH) areas. Metal frames can either wrap the door opening as shown above, or sit within it.
Door frame sizes are based on standard door leaf dimensions, with allowances for installation tolerances.
Frame depth typically matches wall thickness (e.g. stud partition or masonry wall build-up).
Door frames are typically selected as part of a coordinated door system rather than specified in isolation.
Performance Requirements
Identify the performance requirements (e.g. fire, acoustic, durability) and select a compatible door set or manufacturer’s system that includes the frame. On larger projects, these requirements will be provided by the fire consultant and acoustician. On smaller projects this may be the Building Control Officer.
Dimensional coordination
Provide the contractor / door manufacturer with the structural opening, and finished wall thickness, including allowances for tolerances (typically 5-10mm, but this will vary by contractor preference). Ensure the frame is suitable for the wall construction (e.g. metal stud or masonry) and that fixings and installation methods are appropriate.
Material and finish
Select materials based on durability, maintenance, and appearance. Timber is common for residential use, while metal frames are often used in more demanding environments. TImber doors are often painted or veneered, veneering is significantly more expensive than painting. Metal doors are usually painted in the factory.
A carpenter demonstrates how a door frame (specifically the door lining) is installed into a structural opening in a wall, explaining tolerance and fixing information.
An architrave is a decorative trim fixed around a door frame (or window frame) to cover the joint between the frame and the adjacent wall finish, which would otherwise look messy because the frame is smaller than the opening so leaves gaps. It is typically made from timber, MDF, or occasionally plastic or metal, and is installed after the wall has been finished (e.g. plastered or plasterboarded).
It is usually supplied as a profiled section of timber. The profile/design itself will vary depending on the desired look of the door as a whole. More detailed profiling will create a more traditional look, simpler architraves usually look more modern.

1 - Plasterboard
2 - Architrave
3 - Door Frame
Covering and finishing
The primary function of an architrave is to conceal the gap between the door frame and the wall finish. This gap is required to allow for construction tolerances but would otherwise be visible and untidy.
Aesthetic role
Architraves contribute to the visual character of a space. Different profiles, sizes and finishes can be used to suit traditional or contemporary interiors.
Protection
They provide a degree of protection to the vulnerable edge of plaster or plasterboard around openings, helping to reduce damage from impact or wear.
Note: some modern doors do not use architraves, this is usually done to visually 'down play' the door opening. For example if the door is only to be used to access a storage or plant cupboard. If no architrave is being use, a special door product called a 'jib door' or 'concealed door' must be used, as a regular door would look messy between the frame and opening.
Richard Burbidge
The UK's leading timber mouldings manufacturer. Their architrave range covers all major profiles — torus, ogee, chamfer and bullnose — in softwood and MDF, widely available through merchants and DIY retailers nationwide.
Skirting 4 U
UK online manufacturer producing MDF and solid oak architraves to order. Popular for matching architrave and skirting sets. Tulipwood is also offered for a high-quality painted finish. Made to measure with UK-wide delivery.
Orac Decor
Belgian manufacturer with a strong UK presence. Produces polyurethane architraves in a wide range of decorative profiles, including flexible versions for curved walls. Pre-primed and paintable, popular in premium residential projects.
Architraves are available in a range of materials and profiles depending on the desired appearance and durability.

Solid softwood or hardwood sections, often painted or stained. Common in residential construction and suitable where a natural material or higher-quality finish is required.

Used in heavy-traffic commercial areas where extreme durability is required. Examples include public transport stations or airports.
When selecting architraves, the focus is primarily on appearance and practicality in terms of robustness of materials.
Material
Consider the area that the architrave is being installed. If it is in a busy area and is likely to be damaged, hardwoods and MDF may be appropriate. Metal can be used for high-traffic commercial areas. In domestic areas, softwood is cheaper and may be sufficient.
Finish
If the desired aesthetic is that the timber will be not be painted (i.e stained), then MDF should not be used as it is a reformed timber that has no visible grain.
Profile and style
The profile should align with the overall interior design intent. Simpler profiles suit contemporary spaces, while more detailed profiles are often used in traditional settings. The width and thickness of the architrave should be proportionate to the room and door size. Larger spaces or taller doors may require wider sections to look balanced.
Architraves are installed after plastering or drylining is complete, as they are designed to cover the junction between the wall finish and the door lining rather than sit behind it.
Mitres at corners must be cut accurately to achieve a clean finish, even small errors in the angle can result in visible gaps that are difficult to fill neatly.
Fixings are usually concealed using pins or adhesive and filled before painting, so that no fixings are visible in the final finish.
Uneven walls can make installation more difficult, as the back of the architrave may not sit flush, and adjustment or packing may be required on site.
Architraves should be protected during the finishing stages of construction to avoid damage before the project is complete.
Architraves are typically coordinated with skirting boards and other timber trims throughout the space to maintain a consistent design language.
Shows an architrave being applied to cover the messy junction between the door frame and wall.
A deflection head is a detail at the top of a metal stud wall that allows movement of the structure above without transferring that movement into the partition. This would otherwise happen over time and cause cracking in the plaster and paintwork. It typically consists of a head track fixed to the soffit (e.g. underside of slab or beam), with studs installed short of the structure to create a small gap. The plasterboard lining is also stopped short of the structure, maintaining this gap.
This detail is commonly used where vertical movement is expected, such as in multi-storey buildings, to prevent damage to the wall.

Movement accommodation and crack prevention
The deflection head allows vertical movement (deflection) of the structure above without loading or compressing the stud wall below. This movement may come from structural loading, creep, or thermal effects. By maintaining a gap at the top of the wall, the detail prevents cracking in plasterboard finishes and allows the wall to remain stable and aligned while accommodating movement.
Fire and acoustic continuity
Where required, the gap at the head is sealed using appropriate materials (e.g. compressible fire-rated sealants or mineral wool) to maintain fire resistance and acoustic performance.
Deflection head details vary depending on how movement is accommodated and the performance required.

The most common approach, where studs are cut short and not fixed tightly to the head track, allowing vertical movement within the track.

Where fire and/or acoustic performance is required, strips of plasterboard or metal angles can be fixed to the soffit either side of the head track. This prevents fire or sound from passing through the gap at the top of the plasterboard fixed to the studs.
The key dimension is the deflection gap, which depends on the expected movement of the structure.
Deflection heads are not sized arbitrarily — they are determined by expected structural movement and system requirements.
Determine movement requirements
The expected deflection of the structure above must be understood, typically from structural engineer input. This defines the required gap and type of head detail.
Ensure performance continuity
Where fire or acoustic ratings are required, the head detail must include appropriate sealing (e.g. compressible fire-stopping materials) that can accommodate movement without losing performance.
Select a compatible system
Rather than detailing from first principles, designers typically select a manufacturer’s partition system that includes tested deflection head details. This ensures compatibility with fire and acoustic requirements.
Studs must not be tightly fixed to the head track, as this would prevent the deflection detail from functioning as intended and could transfer structural movement directly into the partition.
The plasterboard lining must stop short of the structure to maintain the movement gap, this is a critical detail that is easy to overlook but essential for long-term performance.
The gap is typically concealed above a ceiling or behind a cornice, but must not be filled with rigid materials such as plaster or sealant, as this would defeat the purpose of the detail.Incorrect installation can lead to cracking of the plasterboard finish over time, and may also compromise the fire or acoustic performance of the partition where this has been specified.
Coordination with the ceiling system is important, as suspended or independent ceilings may conceal or intersect with the deflection zone and need to be designed accordingly.
Explains how deflection head detail is installed on site, including fire and acoustic versions.
Pattressing refers to a piece of solid timber board installed within a stud wall to provide a secure fixing point for heavier items such as shelves, TVs, or heavy picture frames that will later be attached to the wall. Pattressing is installed during the wall construction stage, before the plasterboard is fixed. Once the wall is finished, the pattress is concealed behind the lining but provides a strong backing for fixings.
Noggings refers to short horizontal pieces of timber or metal installed between vertical studs within a stud wall to prevent twisting and add rigidty to the studs. They are typically fixed between studs at set heights during the framing stage. In metal stud systems, equivalent components may be purpose-made bridging sections or track pieces. Nogging is installed before wall linings such as plasterboard and is usually concealed within the wall once complete.
These terms are sometimes used interchangably, but typically pattressing is formed from sheets of timber wheras noggins are lengths of timber or metal.

1 - Plasterboard
2 - Pattress
3 - Metal Stud
4 - Base Track
5 - Slab

1 - Metal Stud
2 - Metal Nogging
Stiffening the stud wall
By tying studs together, noggings increase the rigidity of the wall and help reduce twisting or movement of individual studs during construction and use.
Provides fixing support
Pattressing creates a solid and secure fixing point within the wall, allowing heavy or load-bearing items to be safely attached.
Increases durability
Pattressing prevents damage to the plasterboard which may not be strong enough to support heavy items, causing damage and cracking.
Wiithin metal stud and timber stud partition walls, behind wall-mounted fixtures such as:
It may aslo be installed in areas where future fixings may be required but exact positions are not yet known.
Nogging varies depending on the wall system and purpose.
Metal nogging / bridging
Used in metal stud systems, often formed from metal sections or proprietary components designed to fit within the stud profile.
Pattressing (heavy-duty support)
Common in timber stud walls, using short lengths of timber fixed between studs.
Nogging size generally matches the depth of the studs within the wall.
Noggings within the wall that are used for structural stability do not need to be specified by the architect, this is usually the responsilbility of the installer.
Pattressing may need to be set-out by the architect, who will be responsibly for indicating to the installer where it is required based on anticipated wall-mounted items.
Identify fixing requirements
Determine where heavy or load-bearing items will be fixed to walls, such as joinery, radiators, or sanitaryware. These can be marked on a plan or elevation if it does not occupy the enitre wall height.
Select appropriate material and size
Typically this will be boards of plywood or OSB
Pattressing must be installed before plasterboard is fixed, so coordination and early decision-making are important.
If pattressing is not installed where required, retrofitting can be difficult and may require opening up finished walls.
The exact position of pattressing should be accurately recorded or marked to ensure it can be located after the wall is finished.
Shows how a plywood pattress is installed into a metal stud wall. This is a typical pattressing detail that could be used to allow for heavy items such TVs or shelving.
Sockets and switches are electrical fittings used to provide power and control to lighting and appliances within a building. They are typically installed within walls and consist of a back box recessed into the wall and a visible faceplate fixed to the front.
The back box houses the electrical connections and is installed within the wall construction, often within metal or timber stud partitions. The faceplate is then fixed to the back box once the wall finish is complete, providing the final user interface.
These elements form part of the building’s electrical system and must be coordinated with the wall construction and other services.

1 - Cover Plate
2 - Back Box
Power supply
Sockets provide access to the electrical system, allowing appliances and equipment to be connected.
Control
Switches allow users to control lighting and other electrical circuits.
Sockets and switches vary depending on function and design requirements.
Standard sockets
Provide power outlets for general use, typically installed at low level within rooms.
Switches
Used to control lighting circuits, commonly located near doorways.
Specialist outlets
Include data points, USB sockets, or outlets for specific equipment.
Back boxes
Available in different depths and materials, including metal and plastic, depending on wall type and installation method.
Faceplates
Available in a range of finishes and styles, from basic plastic to decorative metal finishes.
Hamilton Litestat
UK manufacturer specialising in decorative wiring accessories. Popular in high-end residential projects for their extensive range of finishes including brass, nickel, and chrome. Often specified by interior designers.
Forbes & Lomax
British manufacturer known for their Invisible Plate range — ultra-slim cover plates designed to disappear into the wall. A premium choice for minimalist and high-specification interiors.
Sockets and switches are generally manufactured to standard sizes to suit UK electrical accessories.
Back box depths typically include:
The required depth depends on the number of cables and the type of accessory being installed.
Single Gang

Double Gang

The quantity of sockets and switches are specified as part of the building’s electrical design rather than as isolated elements. The finish, which is mainly provided by the cover plate, is then decided by the architect
Define electrical requirements
The number, type, and location of outlets and switches are determined by the electrical design and user requirements. For example these may require two or three switches for controlling different lighting circuits.
Select a range of sockets and switches
It is best to select all electrical accessories from a single manufacturer. This way you can ensure the same style and finish of each item. Manufacturers will often make different ranges at different price points.
Coordinate with wall construction
Back box type and depth must be compatible with the wall build-up, including stud depth and plasterboard thickness.
Consider the sequence of construction. The back boxes and wiring are typically installed after the wall framing is complete but before plasterboard is fixed. Openings are then cut in the plasterboard to align with the back boxes.
The faceplates are fixed later, after the wall has been finished (e.g. painted), to avoid damage and to achieve a clean final appearance.
Care must be taken when positioning back boxes within stud walls. The depth of the box must suit the wall construction and allow sufficient space for wiring without clashing with insulation or other services.
Back boxes should not be installed directly back-to-back on opposite sides of a partition, as this can create clashes within the wall cavity and reduce fire and acoustic performance.
In fire-rated walls, penetrations for sockets and switches must be carefully detailed. Fire-rated putty pads or other protective measures may be required to maintain the fire resistance of the wall.
Shows how the back box is cut into the plasterboard of a stud wall. Note that the face plate is then fixed to provide the finished socket.
Acoustic insulation is a soft, fibrous material installed within walls, floors, or ceilings to reduce the transmission of sound between spaces. It is most commonly made from mineral wool (glass wool or stone wool), although other materials may also be used.
In internal walls, acoustic insulation is typically placed within the cavity between metal or timber studs. It is friction-fitted between the studs and held in place without the need for mechanical fixings. The material is usually supplied in rolls or semi-rigid slabs.

1 - Metal Studs
2 - Acoustic Insulation
Improved acoustic performance
Acoustic insulation absorbs sound energy within the wall cavity, reducing the amount of sound that passes from one side of the wall to the other. When combined with plasterboard linings, it significantly improves the overall sound insulation of a partition.
Thermal performance
Although primarily used for acoustic purposes, it can also provide a degree of thermal insulation.
Rockwool
The most widely specified acoustic insulation in the UK. Stone wool slabs such as the RWA45 are the industry standard for internal stud walls, offering acoustic, thermal and fire performance in one product.
Knauf Insulation
Global manufacturer producing glass and rock mineral wool insulation widely used in UK stud wall partitions. The RS60 slab is commonly specified for acoustic performance in internal walls alongside Knauf drylining systems.

The most common choice for acoustic insulation. Dense, fibrous batts that are friction-fitted between studs. Mineral wool is also typically non-combustible in fire.

Similar principle to mineral wool but lighter and slightly less dense. Slightly lower acoustic performance than rockwool but cheaper and easier to handle.

Not commonly used on commercial projects, natural fibre insulation is made from recycled sheeps wool and provides a sustainable alternative to mineral wools.
Acoustic insulation can be supplied in different formats:
Rolls
Supplied in flexible rolls, typically used for quick installation in standard stud spacing.
Slabs (batts)
Semi-rigid boards that provide a tighter fit and more consistent performance within stud walls.
Acoustic insulation is sized to fit within standard stud spacing.
FormTypical WidthTypical ThicknessRolls / slabs400 mm / 600 mm25 mm – 100 mm
The thickness of insulation is usually selected to match or slightly underfill the stud depth.
Define acoustic requirements
Acoustic insulation is typically specified as part of a complete wall or floor system rather than as a standalone product. The required level of sound insulation between spaces must first be established, often influenced by Building Regulations or project-specific acoustic targets.
Select a tested system
A suitable wall or floor build-up is selected from a manufacturer’s tested systems, which will define:
This ensures that the intended acoustic performance is achieved in practice.
Acoustic insulation should be installed carefully to avoid gaps or compression, as poor installation can significantly reduce its effectiveness.
The material should fully fill the cavity without being overly compressed, as this can reduce acoustic performance.
Cutting and fitting around services should be done carefully to maintain continuity of the insulation layer.
Although generally non-combustible, different products may have different performance characteristics, so the correct type should be selected for the application.
Shows the installation of an acoustic wall including the studs, plasterboard, and acoustic insulation.
Skirting and coving are internal trim elements used to finish the junctions between building surfaces. Skirting is fixed at the base of walls where they meet the floor, while coving is installed at the junction between walls and ceilings.
They are typically made from materials such as timber, MDF, plaster, or polymer-based products. Both are supplied in linear lengths and fixed to the wall or ceiling using adhesives, nails, or screws depending on the material and substrate.
These elements are primarily used to create a neat visual transition between surfaces and to conceal small gaps or imperfections at junctions.

1 - Plasterboard
2 - Timber Skirting
3 - Timber Floor Finish
Finish and appearance
Skirting and coving can hide small gaps, uneven edges, or movement between materials at junctions. They provide a clean and defined edge where surfaces meet, improving the overall appearance of internal spaces.
Protection
Skirting helps protect the base of walls from damage caused by foot traffic, furniture, and cleaning activities.
Detailing
They can be used as architectural features, with different profiles and sizes contributing to the character of a space.
Richard Burbidge
Established in 1867, the UK's leading manufacturer of decorative timber mouldings. Wide range of skirting profiles from traditional to contemporary, widely available through merchants and DIY retailers.
Metsä Wood
Finnish manufacturer with a strong UK presence. Produces high-quality softwood skirtings and architraves, widely used in residential construction and available through timber merchants.
Skirting World
UK-based online manufacturer making MDF and HDF skirting boards to order. Everything manufactured in-house with UK-wide delivery. Popular with contractors and self-builders for competitive pricing and huge profile range.
Skirting and coving are available in a wide range of materials and profiles.
Timber and MDF
Commonly used due to ease of installation and cost-effectiveness. Typically painted or finished on site.
Plaster
Often used for more traditional or decorative coving profiles. Provides a crisp, high-quality finish but requires more skilled installation.
Polymer and lightweight materials
Pre-formed products that are lightweight, easy to cut, and quick to install. Often used for coving.
Metal
Metal skirting can be used for commercial / back of house areas where they are likely to be impacted by trolleys or kicking.
Profiles
Both skirting and coving are available in various shapes, from simple square edges to more decorative moulded profiles, allowing different design styles to be achieved.
Skirting and coving sizes vary depending on design intent and building type.
Lengths are typically supplied in:
Larger or more decorative profiles may be used in higher-end or traditional interiors.
Define design intent
The profile, size, and material should align with the overall interior design, whether that is minimal, contemporary, or more traditional.
Select material
Choose a material appropriate to the space, considering durability, moisture exposure, and finish requirements. They may need to be of non-combustible materials if they are used in fire escapes.
Coordinate with wall and floor finishes
The height and profile of skirting should work with floor finishes and wall linings, while coving should align with ceiling finishes and room proportions.
Gaps between lengths or at junctions are typically filled and finished prior to painting to create a continuous appearance.
In areas exposed to moisture, such as bathrooms, appropriate materials should be selected to prevent swelling or deterioration.
Demonstration of both skirtings and architraves being installed. Both of these elements provide a similar function: they hide the messy junctions between two surfaces.
Plasterboard is a sheet material used to form internal wall and ceiling linings. It is typically made from a gypsum core sandwiched between layers of paper, forming rigid boards that can be fixed to timber or metal framing.
Boards are cut to size on site and mechanically fixed to studs, joists, or other supporting structures. Joints between boards are taped and filled to create a smooth surface ready for decoration. Plasterboard is widely used because it is quick to install, relatively lightweight, and provides a consistent internal finish.

1 - Slab Soffit
2 - Deflection Head
3 - Plasterboard
4 - Door Frame
Internal finish
Plasterboard provides a smooth, flat surface that can be painted, tiled, or otherwise finished.
Acoustic and fire performance
Gypsum contains chemically bound water, which helps resist the spread of fire. The type and thickness of plasterboard contribute to the fire rating of walls and ceilings. When used in multiple layers or in combination with insulation, plasterboard can help reduce sound transmission between spaces.
Protection
It forms a protective layer over structural elements such as metal studs or timber framing.
Internal walls: including metal stud and timber stud partitions
Ceilings: fixed to joists or suspended ceiling systems
The inner lining of external walls
Service enclosures and risers
Fire-rated wall and ceiling systems
British Gypsum
The UK's leading manufacturer of plasterboard and drylining systems, widely specified across residential and commercial projects.
Knauf
Global manufacturer of drylining, insulation and ceiling systems. Strong presence in UK commercial construction.
Siniat
Specialist in plasterboard and partition systems, often positioned as a value alternative to the larger brands.
Plasterboard comes in several variants, each designed to meet different performance needs. Although manufacturers often market boards as being tailored for specific functions, enhancing one performance characteristic frequently leads to gains in other aspects of the wall’s overall performance as well. Manufacturers may colour-code their boards according to their advertised function.

Used for general internal applications where no specific performance is required.

Contains additives such as glass fibres to improve fire performance and is used in fire-rated constructions.

Designed for use in areas with higher humidity, such as bathrooms and kitchens.

Typically higher density, used to improve sound insulation in partitions.

Stronger boards used in areas subject to higher levels of wear, such as corridors or public buildings.
Plasterboard is manufactured in standard sheet sizes.
Thicker boards or multiple layers are often used to achieve higher fire or acoustic performance.
Define performance requirements
Plasterboard is typically specified as part of a complete wall or ceiling system rather than as an isolated product. The required fire resistance, acoustic performance, and durability of the wall or ceiling must first be established.
Select a tested system
A suitable build-up is then selected from a manufacturer’s tested systems. These define:
This ensures the required performance is achieved in practice.
Consider finish requirements
The level of finish required (e.g. painted surface, tiled finish) will influence board type and jointing method.
Plasterboard can be finished in different ways depending on the desired appearance and programme. It may be taped and jointed, where joints are filled and sanded. This method is generally faster and more cost-effective, but can result in a slightly less uniform finish, particularly under certain lighting conditions. Alternatively, plasterboard can be skimmed with a thin layer of plaster. This provides a more consistent and uniform surface, but is typically slower to apply and more expensive.
Plasterboard should not be exposed to prolonged moisture, as this can lead to deterioration of the board and the growth of mould. For this reason, it is important that plasterboard is protected during construction and installed in dry conditions.
Once installed, plasterboard should be properly finished and sealed (for example with paint or tile finishes) to prevent moisture from entering the board during use.
Shows the fixing of plasterboard to a stud wall. The plasterboard is then either skimmed or taped and jointed to provide a smooth finish.
Metal studs are lightweight steel sections used to form the internal structure of partition walls. They are typically made from cold-formed galvanised steel and are installed vertically between horizontal tracks fixed to the floor and ceiling.
The studs create a frame onto which linings such as plasterboard are fixed. The void within the frame is often used to accommodate insulation and building services. Metal stud systems are widely used as an alternative to timber stud walls due to their consistency, speed of installation, and dimensional stability.

1 - Slab Soffit
2 - Metal Stud
3 - Door Lintel
4 - Door Jamb
Support
Metal studs provide a lightweight structural framework for internal walls, supporting plasterboard and other linings.
Acoustic and fire separation
When combined with insulation and appropriate linings, metal stud walls can significantly reduce sound transmission between spaces. The system also can contribute to fire-rated wall constructions depending on the type and thickness of plasterboard used.
Service integration
The cavity within the stud wall allows for routing of electrical cables, pipework, and other services.
British Gypsum
The UK's leading manufacturer of plasterboard and drylining systems, widely specified across residential and commercial projects.
Knauf
Global manufacturer of drylining, insulation and ceiling systems. Strong presence in UK commercial construction.
Siniat
Specialist in plasterboard and partition systems, often positioned as a value alternative to the larger brands.

Shaped like a 'C' - these studs are used for typical internal partitions where there are no extreme fire or acoustic requirements

Shaped like an 'I' - these studs are stronger and therefore used for greater heights, fire, or acoustic perormance where more boards are required.

Where enhanced acoustic performance is required, two rows of studs are used to prevent sound transmission across the studs. These could be either 'C' or 'I' studs.
Metal studs are defined by their width and gauge (thickness of steel). Common UK sizes include:
Studs are typically installed at centres of:
The height and gauge of the stud will vary depending on wall height and performance requirements.
Metal stud walls are typically specified as part of a complete proprietary partition system rather than as individual components.
Define performance requirements
The design team must first establish the required performance of the wall, including:
These requirements are usually informed by Building Regulations, the fire strategy, and acoustic design.
Select a tested system
A suitable wall build-up is then selected from a manufacturer’s tested systems. These systems define:
Using a tested system ensures that the wall will achieve the required fire and acoustic performance in practice.
Coordinate with project constraints
The chosen system must then be coordinated with:
The final specification is typically based on manufacturer literature, which provides installation guidance and tested configurations. Deviating from these systems can affect performance, so consistency with tested details is important.
Openings within metal stud walls, such as doors, require additional framing to provide support.
Care must be taken when fixing heavy items (such as cabinets or radiators), as standard studs may not provide sufficient support without additional reinforcement.
Because metal studs are lightweight, they can transmit vibration more easily than heavier construction unless properly detailed.
Demonstration of a how a stud wall is installed. This a system by the manufacturer Knauf, but the principles are the same with all metal stud walls.